Casa de Colores School of Traditional Mexican Cooking

A Unique Culinary Adventure in Cabo



Warm greetings from the cool city of Mexico!

A bit of an odd post, I just had the pleasure and privilege of receiving a much needed corneal transplant here in this amazing place–the magical Colonia Roma to be specific.  After the surgery we installed ourselves in the Hotel California on Baja California street in the Roma, which we considered to be quite propitious, coming from Cabo…

How does all of this fit into a cooking blog?  Ah, FOOD!  Mexico City is one of the foodiest places on the planet, and after I came to, ravenously hungry in the hotel, Manuel appeared bearing a classic comida corrida, the beloved three part set priced meal of Mexico from the hole in the wall eatery on the corner, Las Cazuelitas (since 1949!).  I started with hot chicken consome with tender vegetables, and went on to devour a good red Mexican market rice with a small side of beans, and the main, fresh spinach cakes in a red salsa.  The best meal of my life after a long day of surgery!  Cost?  $50 pesos, about $2.50 US.  Warm cozy tummy?  Priceless!

!Que viva Mexico y que viva la comida corrida!  Cornea surgery has a long recovery, about a year and a half, which will mean monthly flights from Cabo for checkups in the Roma with my amazing surgeon.  Not only is he a certified Cornea God, but also a passionate foodie who proceeded to write up a long list of his favorite holes in the wall eateries on the prescription after my first checkup next morning, including several spots in Oaxaca City!  Great news too, he says the eye is settling in nicely and we should be able to do our market tour of Oaxaca in early September.  Wahoo!

We will be looking forward to eating our way through the Roma many times over the next year.  La vida es buena.

Salud y provecho a todos,



Warm greetings from Cabo!

Manuel and I just took a trip north of the border to my home state of Arizona.  I tend to forget how beautiful it is, and how good the Mexican food can be.  My mom is living in Globe, which means I have to get up that way a couple of times a year now.  This turns out not to be a bad thing.

Globe is a genuine Arizona wild west mountain mining town, right on the edge of the San Carlos Apache rez, and there are numerous Arizona-style Mexican food establishments.  I am told folks come all the way from Phoenix to partake.

We got all fired up and went to Irene’s, which is always packed with happy diners including about half of the Apache nation, all chowing happily down on one of my oldest and best loved comfort foods, green chile chimichangas.

Chimichangas are popular pretty much all through the northern parts of Mexico and the southwest US, and there are many variations.  The one I love best is pure Arizona–a gigantic freshly made flour tortilla spread with slow simmered roasted green chile stew, preferably made with pork though beef will do–folded in from the ends and rolled up to create a ginormous, supremely satisfying burrito.

In Arizona you may face several crucial decisions when ordering your chimi.  Natural is just as it comes, with or without toppings.  Natural enchilada style has the sauce that’s in it generously ladled over it.  French fried, as the name would indicate, is puffed and golden and crisp, hot from the fryer with toppings like shredded lettuce, guacamole, sour cream and salsa layered on, unless you ordered French fried enchilada style, in which case the sauce will be ladled on prior to the toppings.

It’s well worth all these tough decisions, and Irene is turning out great grub at very reasonable prices.  I hear pretty much all the many Mexican eateries in Globe are doing the same.  Irene serves her chimi with Mexican rice and refried beans with way too much melted cheese on top.  Go Globe!

A visit to Arizona is not complete without running down a good fry bread taco.  Many call them Navajo tacos, but pretty much all tribes make their own version, and the recipe varies from family to family within tribes.

I was privileged to cook with Hopi women up on the mesas as a girl because my high school boyfriend was Laguna Pueblo/Hopi.  I also got to go to Gallup for the ceremonials three years in a row, and could be found in the kitchens, cooking with the ladies.  Some of the best Mexican food on the planet comes out of the indigenous Southwest, and fry bread tacos are the epicenter of native comfort foods.

Mostly the dough is simply made with flour, salt, baking powder and warm water or milk, just blended into a soft dough and allowed to rest for a couple of hours.  Pat or roll into circles and fry in deep or shallow oil until puffed and golden, and load on toppings.  Traditional tacos are made with taco seasoned ground beef, beans or chile with beans, shredded cheese and lettuce, chopped onion and tomato, and of course sour cream.  Not neat to eat but mmmm-mmmm good!!

In New Mexico they cut the circles into wedges or rectangles and fry until puffed and golden, and serve either sweet, by biting off a corner and drizzling honey inside, or savory stuffed with red chile stew or other delights. These are called sopaipillas, a very weird name for a very wonderful treat.

So go to Arizona, and don’t hesitate to indulge.  The trip is as good as the food!

!Buen provecho!




Here’s a cool image of Xochimilco, the canals in the very southernmost part of Mexico City, all that remain of the lake once filled with islands including the location of the current city center with it’s famous zocalo.  These ladies are operating a floating kitchen…

Xochimilco is, of course, not a Spanish word.  As I tell my cooks every day, if you live in the southern part of Mexico, YOU SPEAK NAHUATL!  That’s the old Aztec language, and it is still alive and well.  It’s our national language!

If you’d like to find out how much Nahuatl you know, click on the link to hear the fabulous Gonzalo Ceja perform this incredible, highly fun tune.  Here are the lyrics in the meantime–I’ve highlighted a few words some of which you really ought to recognize, especially if you’ve been to my kitchen.  If you live in southern Mexico, pretty much all of this is familiar to you.  !Buen provecho!

Gonzalo Ceja La Lengua

Tú que vives con estrés y tu porte muy francés
y le mascas al inglés, haces giros japonés
y de la alta sociedad.
Tú te sientes el campeón, estudias computación,
muy de origen español
compras todo en Nueva York, mira que eres un galán.
Tú hablas Náhuatl y ahora te lo voy a demostrar

Elementos de cocina:
Molcajete, tecomate, tejolote, malacate, papalote, ahuehuete,
tepetate, y comal, metate y petate, sincolote, itacate, chicote,
tepalcate, huazontle y nixtmal, cuate, amate, pizcatl, tameme,
temascal.  Empacho, pepenar, mecate, mecapal, memela, mezquital, pachichi y
tamal, tianguis y copal, tocayo, Juchitán, olote, ameyal, esquites,
Mazatlán (Jojutla), jilote, jumiles, jícara, jicote y jacal.

Frutas y verduras:
Aguacates y camotes, jitomates y chayotes, cacahuates, tejocotes,
capulines, jícamas, xoconochtle, huitlacoche, epazote y quelites,
elotes y zapotes, tomates y nopal, frutas y verduras, todo acomodado
en su huacal.

Dónde está tu chante, díme
Tlalnepantla, Metepec, Xochimilco, Tepoztlán, Calacuaye, Oaxtepec,
Texcoco y Cuautitlán, Mixcoac, Coatepec, Tlalpan, Coyoacán, Coacalco,
Tuxtepec, Huehuetoca y Pantitlán, Jalisco, Tlaxcala, Oaxaca,
Zacatecas, Michoacán.
Chipote, chacualal, Chiluca, chitamal, chipotle, chapulín, chapopote,
Chichonal, chileatole, chilaquil, chocolate, chiltepin, chachalaca,
chicohual, chilpayate, chalchihuitl, no te quedes chitón, chicle,
chompiate, chahuistle, chiquihuite, chipilin.

Cempasúchil, tonamil, Xicoténcatl, acocil, ocote, quintonil, atole y
topil, Iztaccíhuatl, Zapotlán, Cuauhtémoc, Zacatlán, Cuitláhuac,
Meztitlán, Pozóle y Tultitlán; milpa, mixiotes, mole, mazacuata y
Ahuatlán, Cihuatl.  Tonantzin, Nicuipil, Citlali, chinicuil, nonantzin, jinicuil,
pilinqui y otomi, jiquelite, jinipin, toloache, nipiquin,
tlachiquero, matlochin, Xochitl, quesquemitl, tejio, tescuino,
tezontle, totopoztle, tejamanil.

No se me achicopalen, vamos.
Matatena, pa jugar, talacha, huascahuar, alcahuete, apapachar, no me
vayan a chotear? paliacate, Tizapan, tlacoyo, huizachal, pinole,
tinacal, totopo y mezcal, ráscale al tololoche, vente pal? mitote,
que ya van a empezar a chincualear, mexicatl teahui no te huihui.
Ve que lenguaje qué rica es nuestra forma de hablar.
No te hagas huaje,sigue hablando pues lo nacional.


Candy Store

All of Latin America shares a passion for dulce de leche, a sweet, gooey caramel made from sweetened condensed milk.

Cajeta is Mexican.  This addictive caramel had its humble beginnings in the Bajio region that includes Guanajuato, Queretaro and Aguascalientes.  Production began in Celaya, Gunajuato in colonial times from an old Spanish recipe, but since the Bajio favors goats, an important change took place in the original version of this much loved Mexican sweet as it was made from their  rich, spicy milk.  Cajeta means “little box”, and it was originally packaged in little handmade wooden boxes.

Mexico’s cry for independence began in Guanajuato, and cajeta is inextricably linked with the war that ensued, as it was part of the rations issued to troops to give them the stamina to fight.  In September 2010 cajeta was declared the official Mexican Bicentennial Dessert to honor its long, sweet history.  We take our caramel very seriously!

Today cajeta is still made from goat’s milk, but it comes in the handy squeeze bottle.  The three main presentations are Vainilla, with vanilla added of course, Envinada, with a little alcohol added for richness, and the very best, Quemada.  This is burnt caramel, extra dark, and is without a doubt the favorite of most Mexican families.  It also comes in many forms including hard candies and suckers, or spread between colorful wafers as seen in the candy shop above.

You’ll find cajeta in supermarkets wherever there is a Mexican population.  Pick up a bottle and start squeezing right away–onto fresh fruit slices, over pound cake with peaches, into a cup of coffee or hot chocolate… anywhere you want that rich, dark caramel flavor.  I love to squeeze some into a buttercream for a banana layer cake…

Join in the Mexican celebration of sweetness!

!Buen provecho!







Warm New Year greetings to all!  Another year of growth for Cabo, and a marked increase in the number of traditional Southern Mexican cooks and eaters happily shopping, cooking and eating at Land’s End.  I have never been happier to live here, and FOOD is one of the major reasons!

The South and South Central sections of Mexico are home to deeply traditional regional cuisines, and nowhere else do you see these Southerners transplanted to the geographic north of Mexico as they have done and continue to do here.  Traditional foods are found fresh and well priced in all of our big box markets which stand in for ancient traditional markets down south–even Walmart has professional nopaleros, careful, quick and kind men removing spines from the nopal, our national vegetable, to make eating traditionally easier for the busy Cabo cook.


Cactus Heaven

One of the major differences in the Southern Traditional cooks is the direct application of fire.  My friend Rufina from Guerrero goes into her courtyard and builds a fire when she makes her pozole, or handmade nixtamal tortillas… because she has always cooked these and many other foods over fire, which gives her direct control over the heat when she uses clay baking vessels, comales and so forth, and adds distinctive flavors to her dishes.

Indigenous cooks down south often cook foods directly in the coals of a fire, as they have done for hundreds or even thousands of years.  These tamales from Tlaxcala are a fine example–lake fish stuffed with tiny lake fish, wrapped in the inner membrane of the sword-shaped leaf of the agave from which we make tequila, called mixiote, then charred right in the coals… and the flavors are astounding!


To quote the immortal Homer Simpson, “Fire makes it good!”

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My deep love and respect to the women of Mexico, particularly the Southern women who have transplanted themselves here to the North, who continue to cook in the ways taught to them by mothers and grandmothers, back a thousand years to a time when food was basic, and so much better.

¡Buen provecho!



North of the Border


Say Cheese¡Saludos desde la Ciudad de Mexico!

Manuel and I just got back from a quick trip to our neighboring state of Hidalgo.  I was born and raised in and around mountain mining towns, and always feel most at home in one of these historical gems, a shining example being Mineral del Monte, Hidalgo (also known as Real del Monte, but that’s another story).

What sets Hidalgo’s mining towns apart from any others is the large and indelible footprint left by Welsh miners who showed up in the 1800s, showering the locals with incredible culinary and cultural riches including but not limited to soccer and… PASTES!  Pastes are everywhere in Hidalgo, but that’s another story.

I am actually going to whip a recipe on you all.  I really should do this more often!  It is cold in the mountains of Hidalgo at around 8000 ft., and I was particularly comforted and warmed by this fine example of Huasteca cuisine.  I hope you enjoy it as much as I did.

SOPA DE REQUESON (Mexican Ricotta Soup)

Small package goat cheese

1 cup good quality sour cream or creme fraiche

8-10 oz. Mexican requeson or ricotta

2 c. milk

Whiz the above in a blender jar.

1 small white onion or two green onions, chopped

6 sprigs of fresh epazote, if you can get it (if not, leave it out)

1-3 serrano chiles, added bit by bit to taste

Add the above to the blender jar and give it another whirl.

Melt 3 T. unsalted butter in a soup pot until bubbly.  Pour in the blender contents and simmer to meld flavors.  This should take under five minutes–never let the soup boil.

Whisk in about 3 c. homemade chicken stock (no celery in Mexican chicken stock, please!).  Add salt and freshly ground pepper to taste.

If you are feeling frisky, make a bean flautita (roll refried beans in a flour tortilla), fry til crisp in a little fresh oil and serve with the soup.

Garnish the soup with a dollop of cream and a couple of epazote leaves which you may fry in the same oil, if you can get ’em.

Yes, really simple, and infinitely comforting.




SHOPPING IN MEXICOCactus HeavenCactus Heaven…

¡Muchos saludos desde Cabo San Lucas!

I just got home from a serious chile buying expedition to South Central Mexico… sadly my little corner of the Mexican Republic is not blessed with traditional markets, but a short plane ride takes me straight into the heart of it all. These days we have domestic air carriers like Interjet and Volaris that make it easy and affordable to hop on over to Mexico City, Guadalajara and lots of other great destinations that DO shop the way they’ve done for over a thousand years!

La Merced is the largest retail market in Mexico City, which I would imagine puts it at the top of the heap nationally. It’s only about 13 blocks east of the Zocalo, the amazing public square in the Historical Center that is the cultural heart of the country. It’s named after its neighborhood, as well as the ancient monastery which previously occupied the sprawling space it inhabits. It is filled with life and color and smells and sights and sounds like no place else on the planet, well worth a visit if you are an adventurous traveler!

There are two metro stops for La Merced, including one that puts you right inside, immediately surrounding you with STUFF in surreal quantities, and the people hawking it are no less colorful.  Anything you can imagine, and lots of things you never even thought of are sold at this great- great- great-grandaddy of Mexican markets, including a mind-boggling array of ladies young and old selling their own personal wares in this place where prostitution is the norm, serving local working class men including the many many truck drivers who have spare time between loads.

I was on the hunt for dried chiles, and was not disappointed. After passing through nopal cactus heaven where the air is overwhelmingly fresh, corn heaven where corn on and off the cob surrounds you on all sides, leaf heaven with dried and fresh corn husks for tamales and mixiotes, GIGANTIC sweet-smelling banana leaves in huge neat bundles for tamales, pibil and other good things… finally we came upon the chiles.

And what chiles! After passing a few initial stalls with puny, dried up specimens we came upon rows and rows of stalls displaying soft, flexible, shiny, overwhelmingly fragrant chiles in all shapes and sizes.  I’m coming to the end of my season, so I only scored a couple of pounds of each (in their dried form, a pound is a bunch of chiles)–beautiful burgundy red anchos redolent of sun dried raisins for stuffing with cheese, meat mixtures, chorizo, potato and onion hash, or for making moles… shiny jewel red guajillos for salsas and soups, and even some long, midnight black Mexican pasillas with their rich, complex flavor, so fresh they brought tears to my eyes thinking of the pleasure of stuffing them with Menonite-made Chihuahua cheddar cheese and frying them golden in a tender egg batter….

Take a camera!

Take a camera!

So much to buy and so little space in the bags. Still, we had to get out of La Merced which meant passing through more indescribable quantities of STUFF, which of course had to include kitchen equipment… The first stall in the kitchen equipment area obviously had everything you could ever want or need to set up a commercial kitchen. I asked the friendly proprietor if she had molds for conchas, the Mexican sweet rolls with the seashell pattern cut into the streusel they’re topped with. Of course! Would you like that in stainless or tin? There’s a $10 peso difference in price–I went for the gusto, paying about $4.50 US for a beautiful stainless cutter with two patterns–cannot wait to bake! I have looked high and low for a concha cutter for years–naturally it’s the first thing you stumble over in La Merced.Conchas

And so much more… stainless steel pots and pans and skillets in every size and shape imaginable, commercial kitchen gear, utensils and lo! a fantastically beautiful array of COPPER comales! I had to have one! I suspect it will be wonderful for making tortillas, and sure looks good in the kitchen!

And of course, portable electric stone mills for grinding nixtamal for homemade, whole grain, stone ground corn tortillas. How ever will I get it back to Cabo? Stay tuned.

Don’t miss La Merced!

Muchos saludos y buen provecho,