Casa de Colores School of Traditional Mexican Cooking

A Unique Culinary Adventure in Cabo

YOU SPEAK NAHUATL!

WARM CABO GREETINGS!
Here’s a cool image of Xochimilco, the canals in the very southernmost part of Mexico City, all that remain of the lake once filled with islands including the location of the current city center with it’s famous zocalo.  These ladies are operating a floating kitchen…

Xochimilco is, of course, not a Spanish word.  As I tell my cooks every day, if you live in the southern part of Mexico, YOU SPEAK NAHUATL!  That’s the old Aztec language, and it is still alive and well.  It’s our national language!

If you’d like to find out how much Nahuatl you know, click on the link to hear the fabulous Gonzalo Ceja perform this incredible, highly fun tune.  Here are the lyrics in the meantime–I’ve highlighted a few words some of which you really ought to recognize, especially if you’ve been to my kitchen.  If you live in southern Mexico, pretty much all of this is familiar to you.  !Buen provecho!

Gonzalo Ceja La Lengua

Tú que vives con estrés y tu porte muy francés
y le mascas al inglés, haces giros japonés
y de la alta sociedad.
Tú te sientes el campeón, estudias computación,
muy de origen español
compras todo en Nueva York, mira que eres un galán.
Tú hablas Náhuatl y ahora te lo voy a demostrar

Elementos de cocina:
Molcajete, tecomate, tejolote, malacate, papalote, ahuehuete,
tepetate, y comal, metate y petate, sincolote, itacate, chicote,
tepalcate, huazontle y nixtmal, cuate, amate, pizcatl, tameme,
temascal.  Empacho, pepenar, mecate, mecapal, memela, mezquital, pachichi y
tamal, tianguis y copal, tocayo, Juchitán, olote, ameyal, esquites,
Mazatlán (Jojutla), jilote, jumiles, jícara, jicote y jacal.

Frutas y verduras:
Aguacates y camotes, jitomates y chayotes, cacahuates, tejocotes,
capulines, jícamas, xoconochtle, huitlacoche, epazote y quelites,
elotes y zapotes, tomates y nopal, frutas y verduras, todo acomodado
en su huacal.

Dónde está tu chante, díme
Tlalnepantla, Metepec, Xochimilco, Tepoztlán, Calacuaye, Oaxtepec,
Texcoco y Cuautitlán, Mixcoac, Coatepec, Tlalpan, Coyoacán, Coacalco,
Tuxtepec, Huehuetoca y Pantitlán, Jalisco, Tlaxcala, Oaxaca,
Zacatecas, Michoacán.
.
Chipote, chacualal, Chiluca, chitamal, chipotle, chapulín, chapopote,
Chichonal, chileatole, chilaquil, chocolate, chiltepin, chachalaca,
chicohual, chilpayate, chalchihuitl, no te quedes chitón, chicle,
chompiate, chahuistle, chiquihuite, chipilin.

Cempasúchil, tonamil, Xicoténcatl, acocil, ocote, quintonil, atole y
topil, Iztaccíhuatl, Zapotlán, Cuauhtémoc, Zacatlán, Cuitláhuac,
Meztitlán, Pozóle y Tultitlán; milpa, mixiotes, mole, mazacuata y
Ahuatlán, Cihuatl.  Tonantzin, Nicuipil, Citlali, chinicuil, nonantzin, jinicuil,
pilinqui y otomi, jiquelite, jinipin, toloache, nipiquin,
tlachiquero, matlochin, Xochitl, quesquemitl, tejio, tescuino,
tezontle, totopoztle, tejamanil.

No se me achicopalen, vamos.
Matatena, pa jugar, talacha, huascahuar, alcahuete, apapachar, no me
vayan a chotear? paliacate, Tizapan, tlacoyo, huizachal, pinole,
tinacal, totopo y mezcal, ráscale al tololoche, vente pal? mitote,
que ya van a empezar a chincualear, mexicatl teahui no te huihui.
Ve que lenguaje qué rica es nuestra forma de hablar.
No te hagas huaje,sigue hablando pues lo nacional.

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CAJETA, A MEXICAN ADDICTION!

Candy Store

All of Latin America shares a passion for dulce de leche, a sweet, gooey caramel made from sweetened condensed milk.

Cajeta is Mexican.  This addictive caramel had its humble beginnings in the Bajio region that includes Guanajuato, Queretaro and Aguascalientes.  Production began in Celaya, Gunajuato in colonial times from an old Spanish recipe, but since the Bajio favors goats, an important change took place in the original version of this much loved Mexican sweet as it was made from their  rich, spicy milk.  Cajeta means “little box”, and it was originally packaged in little handmade wooden boxes.

Mexico’s cry for independence began in Guanajuato, and cajeta is inextricably linked with the war that ensued, as it was part of the rations issued to troops to give them the stamina to fight.  In September 2010 cajeta was declared the official Mexican Bicentennial Dessert to honor its long, sweet history.  We take our caramel very seriously!

Today cajeta is still made from goat’s milk, but it comes in the handy squeeze bottle.  The three main presentations are Vainilla, with vanilla added of course, Envinada, with a little alcohol added for richness, and the very best, Quemada.  This is burnt caramel, extra dark, and is without a doubt the favorite of most Mexican families.  It also comes in many forms including hard candies and suckers, or spread between colorful wafers as seen in the candy shop above.

You’ll find cajeta in supermarkets wherever there is a Mexican population.  Pick up a bottle and start squeezing right away–onto fresh fruit slices, over pound cake with peaches, into a cup of coffee or hot chocolate… anywhere you want that rich, dark caramel flavor.  I love to squeeze some into a buttercream for a banana layer cake…

Join in the Mexican celebration of sweetness!

!Buen provecho!

Donna

 

 

FIRE MAKES IT GOOD

Campfire

!FELIZ AÑO NUEVO!

Warm New Year greetings to all!  Another year of growth for Cabo, and a marked increase in the number of traditional Southern Mexican cooks and eaters happily shopping, cooking and eating at Land’s End.  I have never been happier to live here, and FOOD is one of the major reasons!

The South and South Central sections of Mexico are home to deeply traditional regional cuisines, and nowhere else do you see these Southerners transplanted to the geographic north of Mexico as they have done and continue to do here.  Traditional foods are found fresh and well priced in all of our big box markets which stand in for ancient traditional markets down south–even Walmart has professional nopaleros, careful, quick and kind men removing spines from the nopal, our national vegetable, to make eating traditionally easier for the busy Cabo cook.

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Cactus Heaven

One of the major differences in the Southern Traditional cooks is the direct application of fire.  My friend Rufina from Guerrero goes into her courtyard and builds a fire when she makes her pozole, or handmade nixtamal tortillas… because she has always cooked these and many other foods over fire, which gives her direct control over the heat when she uses clay baking vessels, comales and so forth, and adds distinctive flavors to her dishes.

Indigenous cooks down south often cook foods directly in the coals of a fire, as they have done for hundreds or even thousands of years.  These tamales from Tlaxcala are a fine example–lake fish stuffed with tiny lake fish, wrapped in the inner membrane of the sword-shaped leaf of the agave from which we make tequila, called mixiote, then charred right in the coals… and the flavors are astounding!

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To quote the immortal Homer Simpson, “Fire makes it good!”

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My deep love and respect to the women of Mexico, particularly the Southern women who have transplanted themselves here to the North, who continue to cook in the ways taught to them by mothers and grandmothers, back a thousand years to a time when food was basic, and so much better.

¡Buen provecho!

Donna

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North of the Border

SOPA DE REQUESON

Say Cheese¡Saludos desde la Ciudad de Mexico!

Manuel and I just got back from a quick trip to our neighboring state of Hidalgo.  I was born and raised in and around mountain mining towns, and always feel most at home in one of these historical gems, a shining example being Mineral del Monte, Hidalgo (also known as Real del Monte, but that’s another story).

What sets Hidalgo’s mining towns apart from any others is the large and indelible footprint left by Welsh miners who showed up in the 1800s, showering the locals with incredible culinary and cultural riches including but not limited to soccer and… PASTES!  Pastes are everywhere in Hidalgo, but that’s another story.

I am actually going to whip a recipe on you all.  I really should do this more often!  It is cold in the mountains of Hidalgo at around 8000 ft., and I was particularly comforted and warmed by this fine example of Huasteca cuisine.  I hope you enjoy it as much as I did.

SOPA DE REQUESON (Mexican Ricotta Soup)

Small package goat cheese

1 cup good quality sour cream or creme fraiche

8-10 oz. Mexican requeson or ricotta

2 c. milk

Whiz the above in a blender jar.

1 small white onion or two green onions, chopped

6 sprigs of fresh epazote, if you can get it (if not, leave it out)

1-3 serrano chiles, added bit by bit to taste

Add the above to the blender jar and give it another whirl.

Melt 3 T. unsalted butter in a soup pot until bubbly.  Pour in the blender contents and simmer to meld flavors.  This should take under five minutes–never let the soup boil.

Whisk in about 3 c. homemade chicken stock (no celery in Mexican chicken stock, please!).  Add salt and freshly ground pepper to taste.

If you are feeling frisky, make a bean flautita (roll refried beans in a flour tortilla), fry til crisp in a little fresh oil and serve with the soup.

Garnish the soup with a dollop of cream and a couple of epazote leaves which you may fry in the same oil, if you can get ’em.

Yes, really simple, and infinitely comforting.

¡BUEN PROVECHO!

Donna

LA MERCED – GREAT GRANDADDY OF TRADITIONAL MARKETS!

SHOPPING IN MEXICOCactus HeavenCactus Heaven…

¡Muchos saludos desde Cabo San Lucas!

I just got home from a serious chile buying expedition to South Central Mexico… sadly my little corner of the Mexican Republic is not blessed with traditional markets, but a short plane ride takes me straight into the heart of it all. These days we have domestic air carriers like Interjet and Volaris that make it easy and affordable to hop on over to Mexico City, Guadalajara and lots of other great destinations that DO shop the way they’ve done for over a thousand years!

La Merced is the largest retail market in Mexico City, which I would imagine puts it at the top of the heap nationally. It’s only about 13 blocks east of the Zocalo, the amazing public square in the Historical Center that is the cultural heart of the country. It’s named after its neighborhood, as well as the ancient monastery which previously occupied the sprawling space it inhabits. It is filled with life and color and smells and sights and sounds like no place else on the planet, well worth a visit if you are an adventurous traveler!

There are two metro stops for La Merced, including one that puts you right inside, immediately surrounding you with STUFF in surreal quantities, and the people hawking it are no less colorful.  Anything you can imagine, and lots of things you never even thought of are sold at this great- great- great-grandaddy of Mexican markets, including a mind-boggling array of ladies young and old selling their own personal wares in this place where prostitution is the norm, serving local working class men including the many many truck drivers who have spare time between loads.

I was on the hunt for dried chiles, and was not disappointed. After passing through nopal cactus heaven where the air is overwhelmingly fresh, corn heaven where corn on and off the cob surrounds you on all sides, leaf heaven with dried and fresh corn husks for tamales and mixiotes, GIGANTIC sweet-smelling banana leaves in huge neat bundles for tamales, pibil and other good things… finally we came upon the chiles.

And what chiles! After passing a few initial stalls with puny, dried up specimens we came upon rows and rows of stalls displaying soft, flexible, shiny, overwhelmingly fragrant chiles in all shapes and sizes.  I’m coming to the end of my season, so I only scored a couple of pounds of each (in their dried form, a pound is a bunch of chiles)–beautiful burgundy red anchos redolent of sun dried raisins for stuffing with cheese, meat mixtures, chorizo, potato and onion hash, or for making moles… shiny jewel red guajillos for salsas and soups, and even some long, midnight black Mexican pasillas with their rich, complex flavor, so fresh they brought tears to my eyes thinking of the pleasure of stuffing them with Menonite-made Chihuahua cheddar cheese and frying them golden in a tender egg batter….

Take a camera!

Take a camera!

So much to buy and so little space in the bags. Still, we had to get out of La Merced which meant passing through more indescribable quantities of STUFF, which of course had to include kitchen equipment… The first stall in the kitchen equipment area obviously had everything you could ever want or need to set up a commercial kitchen. I asked the friendly proprietor if she had molds for conchas, the Mexican sweet rolls with the seashell pattern cut into the streusel they’re topped with. Of course! Would you like that in stainless or tin? There’s a $10 peso difference in price–I went for the gusto, paying about $4.50 US for a beautiful stainless cutter with two patterns–cannot wait to bake! I have looked high and low for a concha cutter for years–naturally it’s the first thing you stumble over in La Merced.Conchas

And so much more… stainless steel pots and pans and skillets in every size and shape imaginable, commercial kitchen gear, utensils and lo! a fantastically beautiful array of COPPER comales! I had to have one! I suspect it will be wonderful for making tortillas, and sure looks good in the kitchen!

And of course, portable electric stone mills for grinding nixtamal for homemade, whole grain, stone ground corn tortillas. How ever will I get it back to Cabo? Stay tuned.

Don’t miss La Merced!

Muchos saludos y buen provecho,
Donna

FRESH WATERS!

¡Muchos saludos a todos!

Hard to believe it’s almost May–hot weather is just around the corner up North, though here at Baja’s Cape we have enjoyed an especially beachy winter.  Warm days make me want to share our best kept tropical secret for beating the heat–the thirst quenching Aguas Frescas of Mexico which are peddled at every market, restaurant, mall and park in Southern Mexico!

Say it… Fresh Waters…… don’t you feel cooler already?  If that didn’t do the trick, here is a short list of some of the flowers, fruits, seeds, nuts and grains from which your icy cold Agua Fresca might be concocted.

We make delightful jewel toned drinks from the flowers of hibiscus and bougainvillea–what could be more romantic on a hot summer day?  Any juicy fruit is a likely candidate, including lemons, limes, oranges and grapefruit; canteloupe, watermelon, papaya, mango, coconut, guayaba and pineapple. Strawberries and blackberries make delicate and delightful drinks, and don’t miss aguas with added chia seeds, fresh roasted cocoa beans or almonds!  Tamarind pods make for an addictive sweet and sour drink that is perfect over crushed ice with spicy tacos de carnitas…

You may have had horchata, which is similar to a spiced chai tea only made with rice. We do the same trick with oats, and there is a spiced barley water called cebada.  All of the grain drinks are likely to be perfumed with vanilla and cinnamon stick, and should be shaken or stirred before enjoying in order to reincorporate the spices which tend to settle.

Super simple to make at home, just grab a glass pitcher to show off the jewel colors of your agua, and add crushed or cubed ice.  Fill your blender jar with any juicy fruit, minus the peels and seeds, plus enough water to blend well.  Pour over the ice in the pitcher, filling with water to create a delicate fruit flavored “water”, as opposed to a thick fruit juice.  Sweeten if necessary with just enough Mexican standard (or turbinado) sugar to bring up the natural sweetness of the fruit and ¡abracadabra!   ¡Agua Fresca!

Cactus Heaven

Last but not least, if you have access to nopal cactus paddles, throw a freshly de-spined one in your blender jar along with chunks of fresh pineapple, fresh squeezed orange juice and a handful of fresh cilantro to enjoy a fresh “green juice” which Mexicans swear will cure most any ailment (in a distinctively refreshing way!).  Pour it over ice and drink it fresh, as the nopal sap tends to thicken as you hold it.  It’s well worth the effort–it’s a blood cleanser!

Hopefully this will get you started serving a fresh pitcher of Agua Fresca with meals, as traditional Mexicans do.

¡Buen provecho!

Donna

 

 

THE BIG SEVEN OF OAXACA

Traditional Mexican Ingredients

¡Muchos saludos a todos!

Manuel and I had a fine summer filled with food and travel in southern Mexico and Guatemala.  Four ladies joined us as we wound up our adventures with a personal tour of Oaxacan traditional markets, which will loom large in our memories.  The best mole powders and pastes are made and sold all over Oaxaca City, and as usual we wound up eating our way through the Big Seven Moles of Oaxaca…  and it occurred to me that I have never listed these for my foodie friends.

Plenty of people believe “mole” means “bad chocolate sauce”.  As it turns out, mole is not a Spanish word at all–it’s Nahuatl, the language the Aztecs were speaking long before the Spanish showed up.  Mole is the same word in Nahuatl as salsa in Spanish, which is to say that it means, simply, “sauce”.  These great sauces developed fully during the early days of the Spanish occupation of Mexico, and Oaxaca is the epicenter of this great culinary tradition.  There is some discussion and dispute as to just which moles make the cut, but the Big Seven generally runs something like this.

NUMBER ONE, first always, is Oaxacan Black Mole.  This deepest and most complex  delicacy virtually represents the Day of the Dead to the Oaxacan people, gracing many altars during this baroque celebration of death.  It contains 30 or more ingredients which may include the regional Chilhuacle Negro (an endangered chile found only around Oaxaca City), mulato, Mexican pasilla, guajillo, and ancho chiles; a burnt tortilla, egg bread, plantain, onion, garlic, sesame, almonds, peanuts, avocado leaf, thyme, marjoram, black pepper, allspice, star anise and cloves.  Flavors are balanced with salt and dark brown piloncillo, the first step in Mexican sugar making, usually molded into cones or bars.  The preparation of this mole is elaborate, best passed down from cook to cook.  It is sold as a spice paste which is melted into homemade chicken stock to serve with poached turkey or chicken, white rice and steamed vegetables.

NUMBER TWO is Amarillo (yellow) or Amarillito (little yellow), a very versatile mole which may be served as a stew with a variety of meats, and/or a combination of steamed chayote, green beans and potatoes and corn masa dumplings.  It may contain the ancho, guajilllo, chilcostle and costeño amarillo chiles, as well as Roma tomatoes, onion, garlic, whole cumin seed, cloves, black pepper and toasted tortillas, fresh cilantro and hierba santa, a perfumed herb known as “root beer  plant” in the north, as it contains the same fragrant oils used in making the stuff.

NUMBER THREE is Coloradito (light red)  from Oaxaca’s Central Valleys.  It is a thick , light, sweet sauce made from the chilcostle, guajillo, ancho and pasilla chiles; egg bread, Mexican rustic chocolate, Roma tomato, garlic, salt and dark sweet piloncillo.  It may be served with chicken, pork or beef and steamed white rice, garnished with toasted sesame seeds.

FOUR – Verde, or green mole.  This is a light, fresh, herbal sauce made with toasted pumpkin seeds, tomatillos, serrano chile,  oregano, marjoram, thyme, cloves, allspice, onion, garlic and fresh epazote and hoja santa.  Many people serve this mole with stewed white beans as well as light meats or seafood.

NUMBER FIVE is the rare, magical CHICHILO NEGRO made from the complex Chilhuacle Negro, the Mexican pasilla and mulato chiles; tiny tomatillos, red Romas, marjoram, black pepper, cloves and toasted tortillas.

NUMBER SIX is the controversial Manchamanteles (tablecloth stainer), a sweet, fruity mole served with pork and steamed rice for a colorful tropical banquet of a dish which may include fried plantains, ripe pineapple, sweet potatoes, apple, pear and peach along with the rare Chilhuacle Rojo chile of Oaxaca, and the ancho, guajillo, mulato and Mexican pasilla.  Some cooks argue that this is really a stew, though the line is a thin one if you consider the Amarillo, Estofado and Almendrado.

In SEVENTH place is Mole Rojo made with the Chilhuacle Rojo, ancho (and perhaps the guajillo, pasilla and cascabel), plus sesame seed, almonds, Mexican rustic chocolate, garlic, onion and fresh epazote.

This spot is shared by Estofado de Pollo con Aceitunas (Stewed Chicken with Olives), which is pretty much the same as Pollo Almendrado (Almond Chicken).  These delicious, elaborate stews are made and served with green olives, capers, toasted almonds and pickled jalapeño chiles.

Filet in Mole with chile ancho.JPG

I hope this list inspires you to go even unto Oaxaca City in search of the Big Seven!

¡Buen provecho!

Donna